The Linn Cove Viaduct....an engineering marvel that appears at milepost 304 on the Blue Ridge Parkway in the mountains of North Carolina. It has long been an icon for this scenic roadway which has been coined "America's Favorite Drive." Around five years ago this bridge captured my eye as a photographer and I found several vantage points to photograph it from. However, my favorite images have always been during the times when it is framed in the Autumn colors of the Blue Ridge Mountains. This is truly a magical time in this section of the state. For many years I would wander around on the Parkway in the Fall months in search of colors worthy of my lens. However, in 2011, I gave up my love of photography for a new passion....cycling. I never saw the two worlds colliding like they eventually did.
When I started out riding a bike, I looked for the flattest roads around. I didn't want to go uphill. I remembered doing that very well as a kid, and didn't recall it favorably at all. All that huffing and puffing to creep along on an incline. What fun is that? I wanted to go fast! As an adult picking up cycling once again, I still wanted to go fast, but I also wanted to go far. Neither of these goals seemed to fit with riding on hills. Oh....if the world was only flat. As it turned out, hills would be a part of my riding from early on. Sure, they were minor hills, but I struggled with them nonetheless. As I got better on my bike, I became faster on the hills. I started to feel invincible. I could tackle anything on my trusty Tarmac!
Oh how I overestimated my abilities!!! My first attempt at the Blue Ridge Parkway (and first real attempt at climbing) came in June, 2012, when I went on a club ride to a section in Virginia starting at the KOA campgrounds and going out to Rocky Knob for a total of 62 miles on this out and back route. I was going great until I came to the category 4 climb up to Rocky Knob. I did make it, but I cracked near the top and and to stop because my legs just wouldn't work anymore. While I did finish the ride without needing to hitch a ride, I felt strongly that the Parkway had beaten me. I was not invincible on the bike and I still had so much to learn. In the next few months I did learn a lot, and I listened to the lessons that I taught myself on the summer ride. I planned on doing the same club ride the following year and try to repair my broken pride.
Fast forward to October, 2012, when I was given a surprise chance to give the Parkway another try. This was kind of an odd ride as it started out as a planned club ride and then fizzled out leaving three cyclists left who wanted to brave the very cold conditions to ride in the middle of the Fall color. It was a small group, but we were very excited about being able to do this ride at this time of year. The route had gone through a couple of different versions, but was finalized with a start point of Doughton Park. The plan was for a simple 50 mile out and back route. By the end, we had stretched it to a full 63 miles with 6771 feet of climbing. This climbing included not one, but TWO category 4 climbs (the type that had bested me a few months before), and 11 category 5 climbs. I was worn out by the end of this ride, but I had done it and did not crack, I didn't even whimper (too much). This ride proved to me that while I don't particularly like climbing, I could do it. It even prompted me to sign up for the 2013 Assault on the Carolinas which I participated in the following April.
In June, I found myself participating in a little ride called 2013 Double Down to the Beach. This 212 mile journey gave me some time to chat with my friend Phil Horne who had ridden with me on my last ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We reminisced about that ride and how much fun it had been. As the miles passed under our tires as we headed to the beach we started to plan another ride on the Parkway, again in the Fall. I was game...I love the mountains, and have found that riding in the mountains offers a certain sense of accomplishment when you are done. The wheels started turning for the plans for that trip.
I thought about it off and on as the Summer progressed, but it wasn't until mid September we came up with a plan. What I really wanted to do was ride on the Linn Cove Viaduct....that symbol of America's Favorite Drive. I didn't know exactly where we were going to start, but I wanted that to be included in the route. As I was considering options, the third member from last year's ride offered a suggestion. Doug Miller pointed out that we could start at EB Jeffress Park and ride South to the Linn Cove Viaduct visitor's center and turn around there. By the time we returned to our start point, we would have a 100K route done. I was sold! We got to pick up where we left off last year, and include the Viaduct. It was the perfect route....except for the terrain.
One of the riders who was wanting to join us on this 2nd Annual Fall Foliage Ride mapped out an elevation profile for the proposed route and shared it with us. According to Map My Ride, this 100K route included ten category 5 climbs, two category 4 climbs, two category 3 climbs, and a single category 2 climb leading up to the Viaduct. Yeah, that sounded a little challenging but having conquered Caesar's Head (category 1 climb), I felt confident that I could manage it.
Based on the changing leaves we agreed on October 11th as the day we would meet at EB Jeffress Park. The group dynamic changed several times during the planning phase. We were as few as two, and as many as eight at one time. By the night before, it looked like there would be just three of us yet again. However, only Phil and I would represent the original group from last year as Doug had an unforeseen conflict at the last minute. Joining Phil and me was Adrian Buie who has ridden with Phil on many occasions. The location was set, the cast was formed, we just had to wait for the opening scene.
Unlike last year the temperatures were much more tolerable when we started out. We were well into the 50's by the 8:30 starting time. The only problem was a hurricane that was currently off the coast of NC. It was causing some pretty strong winds along the rim of the Appalachian chain. Phil and I estimated the gusts between 15 and 20 mph which would make this a very difficult ride when combined with the climbs. On the positive side, there were very few clouds in the sky, and the highs were forecasted to be in the mid 60's. We were going to have to deal with the wind, the rest of the conditions were just too perfect to pass up.
We clipped in and set off Southbound toward the Linn Cove Viaduct. The wind seemed to die down a little as we got started and we took that as a good sign. It was a slow start because we were all warming up and unlike last year, we didn't have a 10 mile descent to start with. This year, we knocked out four category 5 climbs in the first 13 miles of riding. Surprisingly, I really didn't even notice the climbs. I felt good, and my legs were in top shape. I was also forcing myself to stay in the small chainring to warm up in proper fashion. I knew the biggest climbs of the day were still in the future and I wanted to be prepared for them.
Just about the time I was planning on moving to the big ring, we hit a category 4 climb. Of course, I was happy to leave the chain on the small ring and spin up the climb. Shortly after that we hit a smaller category 5 climb and I decided that I might as well just leave the chain in the little ring and work the rear cassette for proper cadence. When speeds got too fast for the little ring, I would just coast. That was the strategy this year, and I committed to it in the first 15 miles or so. I'm glad that I did because after a nice long coast it was climbing time again with the hardest climb thus far. We were all disappointed when we realized that was just the preface to the climb up to the Viaduct which came shortly thereafter. More on that in a little bit.
As with last year, we were taking our time on this ride. There isn't much in the way of flat roads so you are either climbing or descending. For the most part the wind was at our backs which helped, but the occasional side winds were down right scary on the descents. We had to stay very focused for the whole ride, and there wasn't much time to just pedal and rest. To help keep our bodies from burning out too quickly, we took a lot of breaks to adjust clothing, feed, and hydrate. Oh, and most importantly to take pictures. This is one of the only rides where I don't mind taking several breaks in a 20 mile stretch. Usually, it just ruins my rhythm, but riding in the mountains does not allow you to develop a rhythm at all. You are either mashing the pedals or coasting. Your legs never stay at a constant cadence so stopping occasionally is absolutely permissible. Also, it would be a sin not to stop and check out the sights along the Parkway...I mean, we are traveling in the best fashion for sight seeing!
With all of the climbing that we were doing, we were all starting to warm up nicely. The weather was improving and the wind even seemed to be slowing down a bit. We were having a great time!!! It was just that 1100 ft climb that awaited us to get to the Viaduct that had us worried. We were all doing our own thing to prepare for it. I had stayed in the little ring the whole ride and spun as easy as possible. Phil and Adrian were riding their own rides as well. We were using the tops of each climb as a regrouping point where we would all check in. It just doesn't pay to get separated from the group on the Parkway. Cell reception is spotty at best, and if there is a problem, help might not be easy to find...so we stick together. Each crest was a nice rest stop for us and usually allowed a chance to gaze out over an overlook. It also gave us an opportunity to see what our current altitude was. We rode back and forth between 3200 and 4400 feet on this stretch of the Parkway.
At around 25 miles the road pitched up and just kept on climbing. This was the big climb for the day and the one that I had been anxiously waiting for. I dropped down into my 28 tooth cog and set my pace for a long climb. I pulled away slowly from Phil and Adrian in order to ride my ride as Phil always says. I managed a pretty constant 8mph for several miles and 1100 feet of climbing. One of those things that I decided to do on this climb was to not stop until I made it to the top. I was going to plow on regardless of how my legs felt. I knew I could do it, just had to convince my legs. To my surprise, the climb really wasn't that bad. That is not to say that it wasn't hard because I was working to get to the top, but I don't remember straining too much or wishing I had a lower gear. I was in a comfortable groove and moving at a very satisfactory pace. When I crested I had a very strange thought....While I was glad that I had done the climb, I was actually a little sad that it was over. I still had legs and had found that rhythm that I could have maintained for a good bit more time. But the reality was, the climb was over and there was an overlook to my left...time to pull in and wait for the others.
While I waited I took out my phone and started to snap some pictures of the sights. I ate, I drank, I rested. I even talked to a couple who had pulled off to check out the view. I guess the guy felt a little sorry for me taking pictures of my surroundings for memories of the big climb and offered to take a picture for me. I was very thankful for the offer and agreed happily. It wasn't until later in the ride, that I learned that not only was this the memory of the big climb, it was also the highest point of the ride. Yep, here is proof that I rode a bicycle up to 4400 feet. The little things always entertain me!
The big climb was done, but the icing on the cake was still ahead of us. The Linn Cove Viaduct was several miles further on down the road. After we regrouped we made our way to the famous bridge. Not wanting to experience this alone, I rode with Phil until we reached Stack Rock Creek which was the official midway point. Phil and I pedaled along and had to stop on the side of the Parkway when we saw the Viaduct in all of its glory off to the side. We were so close to it now! There seemed to be an endless number of small bridges that we rode across, each one I thought for a brief second was going to be the Viaduct. I swear I don't remember this many bridges when driving a car. Maybe its a bike thing. We did finally arrive at the entrance. I think we were both so excited we forgot to stop and take a picture as we entered it. Once on the bridge the view captivated us and we were just in awe of what we saw. This was an amazing sight, and worth the hours of pedaling it took to get here. Doug had come up with an awesome route, but ironically he was not here to benefit from it.
Once we hit Stack Rock Creek at mile 33.5 it was our long break. Adrian's wife had agreed to SAG for us and met us here with extra supplies. Being a self sufficient type, I was doing fine with the supplies that I had brought and didn't need to restock. Phil and Adrian took on additional supplies and fluids. We all rested and enjoyed the fact that we were here. Oh, did I mention that the leaves had really started to pop above 4000 feet? It was like riding through a painting....or a picture. I was on a bicycle traveling the same places I had used to photograph just a few years before. I was enjoying the mountains just as much, but in a totally different way.
Not wanting to wait too long and allow our legs a chance to stiffen up, we climbed back on our bikes and started North, back to EB Jeffress Park. The ride started out easy enough with some nice rollers to get our legs going again, and then we descended that category 2 climb...into a strong and gusty headwind. We all stayed together and stayed on the brakes to keep our speeds down due to the wind. However, I found that I was feeling very unstable at the slower speeds, and was getting some turbulence from Adrian and Phil. I decided to see what it would feel like attacking the wind and letting the bike coast up to its own speed. I released the brakes and passed by. I looked down, and I was over 40mph and seemed to be much more stable. I used the full lane as I made my way down the hill. An occasional side wind would push me over a few feet, but I had plenty of margin of error with the lane. I think for me, the way to fight strong winds on a descent is to just plow through them. I'm not recommending this tactic, just saying that it worked for me.
After that nice and long downhill, it was back to the categorized climbs again. Up and down, down and up. All the downhills became uphills, and all the uphills became downhills. We still had another four category 5 climbs and two category 3's left to go before getting back to our vehicles. The second half is always the worst it seems. We were all getting tired and knew that the end was ahead of us. We made frequent breaks at all possible overlooks to stay together. I was starting to push things a little bit because I was seeing that the ride was going longer than I had expected and I needed to get home soon. I still didn't want to get too far away from the others though, so I ended up playing a self imposed game of hurry up and wait. That worked out because the hurrying up was starting to make me tired and the waiting was allowing me to rest.
We were all motivated to get home at this point. There wasn't as much talking. We were quiet...focused on our own progression over the hills and through the winds. As always, Phil was as steady as he was when he started out. Even though his legs were not in top form he was his normal consistent self. Adrian was still very strong, but I noticed he was spending more time out of the saddle in the climbs. We were all wearing out. The lesser climbs were starting to feel more like the category 2 I had expected earlier. It was a combination of wind and fatigue for all of us I think. Adrian's wife continued the SAG support and stopped at almost every overlook to check on us and make sure that we had what we needed. She was a very welcome addition to this journey!
I could tell I was getting tired. For the first time, I saw Adrian pulling away from me and I didn't have enough in me to catch him. I kept eyes on him, but he had dropped me. I had hit a wall. Granted this came after a very long stretch with no breaks. I was really looking forward to the next overlook so we could pull over and regroup, and I could rest! I needed more energy than this to make it over that last climb.
In a stroke of deja vu, at mile 62 we all stopped at an overlook and Adrian decided that the looming category 3 climb that remained over the last 5 miles would possibly do him in. He opted to cut the ride short and catch a ride with his wife. This brought back memories of last year when Doug broke off and headed to his mountain home leaving Phil and me to finish out the ride by ourselves. That is what happened again this year...it was Phil and me finishing alone. We left out from our last rest stop and started down the road. It quickly pitched up and Phil told me to ride my ride. Knowing that I needed to get back home soon, I took him up on the offer and settled into my lowest gear and found my rhythm. At 8mph I climbed that last climb and realized that my legs were comfortable again. I wasn't hurting, and everything was working as it should. I pulled into EB Jeffress park as strong as I had hoped with 67 miles under my tires....and a total of 7241 feet of total climb based on my Garmin Data!
My bucket list item from the Summer of 2012 has now turned into an annual Fall event where I blend my love of the mountains, with my love of cycling, and my love of the season. Just as with my Photography years ago, I have come back home to the Appalachian Mountains. Sure, I ride other places, and do a lot of riding around home...but something that I think I will always look forward to is my trips to the mountains. I have driven the Parkway, hiked its many trails, photographed from its scenic vistas, and have now pedaled my way through a total of 100 miles of the 469 mile stretch of road....and done that 100 miles in both directions. Phil and I are already planning on next years ride where we will be picking up where we left off this year, or starting into the Virginia section on the North end. Either way, we will be back, and ready to experience the sights, sounds, and smells of the Blue Ridge Parkway.
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